Moyashimon Pattern: A. oryzae

A. oryzae

This amigurumi pattern creates a 3″ (7.5cm) aspergillus oryzae when crocheted with worsted weight yarn. If you would like a smaller oryzae, simply use a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook.

In order to use this pattern, you should be familiar with the magic ring technique. It is also recommended that you use an “invisible decrease” technique (such as crocheting the front loops of two stitches together) rather than just skipping a stitch (which leaves a hole). Please read the notes regarding changing yarn color as this is especially important in this pattern to create a nice clean rectangular mouth for oryzae. I also recommend using a shade of yellow that is dark enough to contrast well with the white of the mouth.

As long as you are familiar with amigurumi basics this pattern should be fairly straightforward (and quick!). The only tricky part is perhaps the antennae. To create these you will make two consecutive magic rings. I included a photo of how to begin the second magic ring (I’m using a single strand base for the second ring, however you can wrap the tail around twice and use a double strand if you prefer). Feel free to send me a message if you have any questions or are having trouble and I will see what I can do to help.

If you like this pattern, please let me know. If I see that people are enjoying them I will make more available (see more of my Moyashimon amigurumi microbes). かもすぞ~


The pattern for Aspergillus oryzae is essentially the same as several other Moyashimon microbes. For example, you can create Aspergillus sojae by using 4 antennae instead of 5 (omit the top antennae). Or you can create Aspergillus niger by making 5 black antennae and switching to black yarn when crocheting the body (color change at R10).

A. sojae

A. sojae

A. niger

A. niger

Magic Ring Tutorial

The following is a step by step tutorial for the “magic ring” or “magic circle” technique to begin crocheting in the round. This is the method of choice for beginning amigurumi projects. The advantage of this method is that it produces a tight, stable ring to begin crocheting, and unlike the chain/join method there is no hole in the center of the ring.
I have also created a PDF of this tutorial which includes some arrow notations in case you are having problems following the pictures. > Download PDF tutorial

Keep in mind that this is simply the way I find easiest to create the magic ring. When it comes to how to hold/manipulate the yarn, different people may prefer different methods, so do whatever is most comfortable for you.

1. Begin by wrapping the yarn around your fingers as pictured. For this tutorial, I am using a double wrap (we will be crocheting around two strands of yarn). Whether you crochet around a single strand or double strand of yarn is personal preference … I find that the double strand is a little easier to work with (more stable with less twisting).

2. Pinch the two yarn loops together at the base (the yarn on the far left is your working yarn).

3. Transfer the loops so that you are holding everything in one hand.

4. Insert your hook through the center of the ring formed by the two loops of yarn. Wrap the hook around your working yarn, and pull back through the ring.

5. At this point, I adjust my fingers within the loop to set myself up for crocheting around the ring: insert your thumb into the ring from the front, and your middle finger into the ring from the back. Apply opposing pressure using these two fingers to stretch the ring out from the center and pull it taut.

6. Next, yarn-over with the working yarn and pull up a loop (in other words, pull a loop back through/under the portion of the ring that is laying across your hook). You are now ready to begin crocheting your ring. At this stage (once you have the single loop on your hook) the ring should feel very stable as long as you continue applying pressure from the inside of the ring to keep everything stretched out nice and tight.

7. Begin your first single crochet (SC): insert the hook through the center of the ring (going underneath/into the double-strand ring held open by your fingers). Wrap the working yarn around your hook.

8. Pull the loop on your hook back through the center of the ring.

9. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.

10. You have just completed the first single crochet of your ring. Yay.

11. Continue with the next single crochet in like fashion (insert your hook through the center of the ring, wrap around the working yarn, and pull loop back through the center of the ring).

12. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. This completes the second single crochet.

Finishing: You can now continue until you have the specified number of single crochet for your magic ring (typically 6). Once you have completed these stitches, you will close the ring by pulling on the tail end of the yarn. For a double stranded ring like the one in this tutorial, pull on the tail until one of the strands of the ring begins to move. Note which strand moves, and grasp this strand. Pull until tight (this will make the second strand disappear). You can now pull on the tail again to tighten the remaining strand (pull tightly and there will be no hole whatsoever in the center of your ring). Generally at this point I round off the ring by joining to the first single crochet with a slip stitch. You are now ready to continue your project and begin crocheting in the round. Good luck!

Peacock Amigurumi Pattern

finished_peacockI originally created this pattern for my penpal who likes peacocks, but I have decided to write it up so others can make it as well. The finished size is about 7.5″ in width, and once fully assembled the peacock will stand up on its own. The pattern is fairly straightforward and should be relatively easy to follow as long as you are familiar with amigurumi basics. In addition to the typical techniques (single crochet in the round, increasing, decreasing, etc), you will also encounter a few HDC (half double crochet) and DC (double crochet) … primarily in the shaping of the head/neck. The PDF pattern also includes photos of assembly on page 2. If you have any problems feel free to contact me (this pattern is also available on